Tuesday, February 9, 2010

taking a step back

Do you ever have those moments where you just step back and look at where you are, and are just in disbelief at the current scene of you life? I remember once in India I was in a rural village at nighttime, watching people perform rituals to the Hindu gods, and I just paused for a second to ask myself, "Am I really here? Out of everywhere I could possibly be in the world, what are the chances that I am here?" It is the coolest feeling just to step back for a moment and realize how bizarre and amazing it is that you are in the exact place you are just happening to cross paths with some people who you probably never in your life would have been able to. I can't explain the feeling, and it really could happen anywhere- not just in a foreign country- but it is just so surreal.

Well, I had one of those moments today.

As you know I am writing (or I need to start tonight!) a paper on US relations with Nicaragua. This has been such a fascinating topic to explore, especially since I feel like it is one of America's best kept secrets. Our relationship with Nicaragua, especially during the Cold War, is extremely controversial. Just a quick history lesson (and I need to prep for my 7-10 page paper due in less than 36 hours which I have yet to start!): skip this part if you just want my cool story of the day. From 1936-1979, the Somoza family oppressively ruled Nicaragua. Unfortunately, they had the support of the US during most of this time. They controlled almost all of the major industries in Nicaragua, and were worth about 1 billion dollars at the peak of their power. While they were not democratic per se in the way that we view democracy as being linked with human rights, they were not communist, thus enjoying our support. After the success of the Cuban revolution, a Marxist group called the Sandinistas formed in Nicaragua. They overthrew the government in 1979 (after several years of horrific retaliation by the Somozas and by the military which they controlled. During this retaliation, the National Guard (controlled by Somoza) ruthlessly bombed villages, killed innocent people, and tortured and killed those who challenged their authority.) However, in 1979, the Sandinistas overthrew the Somoza government and declared themselves leaders of the country. They were idealistic and hopeful that they could bring about the Nicaragua that had been taken from them for many years. Unfortunately, as often happens, the Sandinistas were very disorganized, inexperienced, ideologically diverse from one another, and thus unable to bring about many of the changes that they hoped for their country. There were intense food shortages after redistribution/government control of farmland, among other issues.

Anyway. The most important part of the story is this. The US funded a counter-revolutionary group called the Contras to go into Nicaragua and initiate a civil war. These contras were Nicaraguans who had fled the country (many of them had been in Somoza's National Guard) and wanted to fight against the Marxist government. The US secretly funded these contras, since Congress forbade support via the Boland Amendment. Even though the contras had no chance of winning against the Sandinistas, the hope was that the conflict would eventually require intervention by the US, which would allow us to install a pro-US/democracy leader. Over the course of 8 years, this war cost the US $350 million dollars, and cost Nicaragua $15 billion dollars and 30,000 lives. However, the US supported and funded this war in the name of democracy and the elimination of Marxism in the Western Hemisphere.

Ok. So that wasn't brief. Sorry! But that got me all fired up to write my paper.

So... my professor put me in touch with a Sandinista who lives right down the road from me. She is almost always a host mother for LASP, but this semester does not have a student. Two other students and I had the chance to go over to her house tonight and speak with her about her experience growing up in Nicaragua. She was somewhat emotional while speaking about her past there, and even about the situation today. Her father was imprisoned by the Somozas and tortured. They would go and visit him every 3 months and see him stripped naked and bleeding from tortures and beatings. As you can imagine, it had a huge effect on her sister and her, as they were only 5-6 years old. I am a little bit unclear about how she worked with the Sandinistas (all of this was in Spanish, so I only comprehended some... but I will get details tomorrow from the other two students.) However, she spoke a lot about the tragedy of the Somozas taking so much for themselves and the few in their family, and leaving the millions of Nicaraguans completely poor and helpless. She also spoke about the war on ideologies- the Sandinistas were communist, yet they were also people who wanted to bring about change to their country. It was a wonderful opportunity, she emphasized, yet in many ways it was stolen from them by the US who launched a war via the contras at the beginning of Sandinista rule. Some Sandinistas believe that the Marxist government could have prospered had it been left alone; some are not as hopeful. She also spoke about the situation today, where many Nicaraguans emigrate to Costa Rica in order to find jobs and make a better life. However, they are discriminated against here and very much looked down upon by Costa Ricans. (Much in the same way that many Americans look down on immigrants in the US...)

**There are many many other things she said. Some of which I got, and many of which I didn't, but one thing that just completely struck me the whole time was her openness and hospitality to a group of American, AMERICAN, students. Students from a country that supported an oppressive dictator and funded the war that killed many of her friends and fellow country men. A war where she fought on the other side of the US and democracy. It was just amazing for me to take a step back and see what was happening: this beautiful woman, welcoming us into her home, giving us tea and cake, and sharing, tearfully, the story of her country and her people.

Out of all the places I could have been this afternoon for two hours. Wow. That is all I have to say.

Monday, February 8, 2010

Election Day!

Yesterday was the Costa Rican presidential elections, and it would have been worth coming here just to see how enthusiastic and passionate this country is about democracy and about voting. Seriously. I already wrote about how before the elections, I would see tons of cars and flags and rallies going on in the parks and streets. Well, yesterday was all of that taken to a whole new level.

Yesterday I woke up and my family just had such a gorgeous breakfast together. Papaya, cantalope, watermellon, hot dogs, ham sandwiches, COFFEE, and freshly squeezed orange juice (this is one of my favorite things about Costa Rica... a few times a week my mom gives me freshly squeezed orange juice.... just the juice from about eight oranges or so. most delicious thing in the world. If I don't have that, sometimes I have a strawberry and milk smoothie or a papaya milkshake. Mmmmmmm.) My mom prayed for the elections, and that God would guide the voters and the future president. This is another thing I really appreciate about my family and just about the culture in general. People really trust God with decisions like these.

After breakfast, my two older sisters came over to the house with their husbands and my one nephew. Some of them were wearing the colors of their preferred candidate and national party. Everyone in my family was voting for Otton Solis.



We got into two cars and drove across town to the polls. It was crazy! As we got closer and closer to the polls, there were more and more cars and demonstrators. It was all very peaceful and good natured though. Whenever we would see people with Otton's flag or colors, we would honk the horn loudly and cheer and wave out the window. It was crazy!





We went to vote, which is all done by written ballot. I tried to go in with my mom to vote, but they forced me to leave. :-( But I still got to see the setup. All the people who live in my town voted at one school. Outside of the school there were tons of tables set up for each candidate. I read in the paper that 300,000 volunteers gave their time around the country yesterday for the election. That number seems fairly large, but that is what I read in the paper.

Anyway. After we voted we came home and decided to walk downtown to see all the cars and people there. This was probably the craziest part of the whole day. We went to el Parque de Guadelupe, and there were hundreds of people standing along the road waving flags at all the cars and buses on the busy street. It was a fiesta!




Some people wore masks, including one of Ronald Reagan!



Another thing I loved: my older sister and her husband brought their dog, Argus, with them on the walk, and he sported the colors for Otton. Tons of kids and people on the streets got a huge kick out of that, and came over to socialize and show their support for Otton as well.






After finishing our walk, we went to my older sister Beij-Hiu's house, and ate lots of bread, fried plantains with refried beans and guacamole (also the greatest food in the world... panacotes as they are called- basically a smashed plantain fried twice.) We also took part in the great American tradition of watching the Superbowl. Woohoo. I am way more clueless about the NFL than my Costa Rican family. Haha.

When we came home, we tuned into the results, and at about 8:30pm, it was announced that Laura Chinchilla won the election with about 46%. Otto and Otton both took about 20-25%, and the other four candidates split the rest. My family was disappointed in the results, but it is kind of cool that Costa Rica has their first female president! And I got to be here while it all happened!

Saturday, February 6, 2010

Elections

One really unique thing that is happening during my semester are the elections in Costa Rica! It is so exciting to be here during the campaign process and on election day, which is tomorrow.

Right now there are four main candidates for president, including one woman- Laura Chinchilla, who is the current vice president for President Oscar Arias. She is predicted to win the election tomorrow, and become Costa Rica's first woman president. (It is amazing to me that the US has never had a female president while many countries around the world have.) There are definitely some Laura fanatics in the country, but many people who feel that she will just be a puppet of the current administration. My family supports Otton Solis, who will probably take 3rd place tomorrow.

One thing that is really cool is how passionate the country gets about the elections. For the last few weeks, I have seen tons of cars waving flags for their political party out the window. There are also lots of demonstrations on the streets and in the parks for different candidates. Today, when my mom, sister and I drove home from the movies, there were cars everywhere waving flags, and people on the street and in other cars honking and cheering out the window. It was pretty much a constant stream of honking and cheering on the way home today. In the US, you see a lot of people with signs in their windows and yards, which doesn't happen here. But the car thing and passion on the street is a new thing.

It is also encouraging because voter turnout is fairly high here and people are always talking and debating about politics. I come from a family that takes the civic responsibility to vote very seriously. (Since I have turned 18, I have voted in every single local, state, and national election there is... including elections for town council, school board, town mayor, etc. I probably would have missed the local elections had it not been for my parents who arrange for absentee ballots to arrive in my mail at Gordon. Which I appreciate, Dad! :-)) Anyway, it is refreshing to be in a place where people take the future of their country seriously.

I am excited about tomorrow. My mom said that it is a fiesta all day long. When I asked if I could come with them to vote, my mom was like, "Well, OF COURSE you are coming! You must! It is the most exciting and beautiful day!" Haha. I didn't even have to ask- they assumed that of course I would come with them to vote and take part in the democratic traditions that this country proudly upholds.

Tacos Chinos

Every once in a while, my parents make "tacos chinos"- Chinese tacos. My father is Chinese and every once in a while our Costa Rican food has a little bit of Chinese influence. Case in point: when we had spaghetti the other night, all of us had spaghetti with meat sauce and parmesan, except for my dad, who had plain spaghetti with soy sauce.

My family started talking about the tacos chinos a few days in advance. They said that it took a lot of time and preparation, but that it was very delicious. I didn't really know what they meant, and thought we would just make tacos with some different ingredients. However, we ended up making homemade spring rolls! They were so wonderful, and the process was a great family bonding activity as well.

Basically, it takes about three hours to make. And we made 50 of them! First my dad prepared the dough, and then spread a very very thin layer on a frying pan.






He made dozens of very thin, almost pancake type, tortillas. Then, my mom, sister, and I placed inside some chopped cabbage, carrots, and pork. They showed me how to roll it up very tight and seal it with some pasty dough.




Then, my dad fried them all, and after my older sister and her husband arrived, we all feasted on tacos chinos at 10 pm (after having a huge spaghetti dinner!)

I never really cared much for spring rolls, but I definitely have a huge appreciation now for the work and time they require! And they actually were very delicious.

Thursday, February 4, 2010

My family!!!

Here are a few pictures of my family. You can see my parents, my older sister Biej-Cheng, her son Diego, and the newest addition to our family: Luna! A little kitten. Luna has only been in the house for a few days, but we all love her. She is so tiny and just sleeps all day long, but she is so cute and hilarious. I need to post pictures of my other sisters later. But you can see my wonderful parents and sister and nephew. One thing that is neat is how close the families are here. My nephew comes over the house every single morning, and sometimes in the afternoon as well. My two older sisters, who are both married and in their 30s, come over the house as well almost every day. Diego, my nephew, has so many parent figures in his life with his grandparents and aunts and uncle who are all very involved. Anyway. Just a side note. :-)





More Updates on My Life

So I never gave many details about my weekend in Limon, but it really was a wonderful weekend. On Friday we stopped at coffee, pineapple, and banana plantations. Those were so interesting. Most of the food they grow is exported to countries like the US, and it is controversial whether farmers should be using so much land just for exports, as opposed to using the land for the people here. We arrived in Limon, which is the most important port in Costa Rica. However, even though most of the country's trade happens at that port, and so much money and wealth passes through there, the area is actually very underdeveloped. It is on the Caribbean side, and has a Jamaican/Caribbean influence. The center of Limon itself is very rundown and underdeveloped.

My favorite part of the weekend was Friday night: in groups of three or so, we had to go around Limon and interview different people about their perspectives of poverty and discrimination in Costa Rica. We were supposed to get a wide range of people, including men, women, indigenous, black, old, young, etc. It was so fascinating. I went around with two friends, one who speaks Spanish fairly fluently and the other who speaks very minimally. The three of us had a great time and were able to pull our brains together to fully understand everything that we were hearing. It was exciting to speak Spanish to people in the streets and have conversations with them about things that matter. And I was actually able to ask questions and understand a portion of what I was hearing.

The first person my group talked with was a man named Rudolpho who was homeless and missing one leg. It was so sad, because he said that he has been trying to get a new leg for a while but has had little success with the government or other health agencies. We had a great chat with him and got an interesting perspective on the lack of faith that some Costa Ricans have in the government. We also got to talk with an indigenous man, a Nicaraguan, some young women who were anti-indigenous, and some other individuals as well.

The next day we met with an indigenous woman in this beautiful rainforest area. She spoke about her life and about the plight of the indigenous people to keep their land and protect their resources. It was sad because she spoke about how sometimes the government will come in and take part of the land that should be theirs, and in return give them a less desirable piece of land. For a while the iguanas, which they use for food and religious ceremonies, were being killed by outsiders. The indigenous had a hard time standing up for themselves against these outsiders who would come in and kill their plants, animals, and other resources. Luckily they have set up conservation efforts and have the support of different non-profit groups now.

That night, after a nice day at the beach, we had a typical Limonese dinner. It was rice and beans, which is the typical dish in Costa Rica, with coconut! So delicious! We also had a live Calypso band playing. It was a private event, so only our group, and we danced and ate the night away. It was a really nice way to bond with the group and get to know people better.

Other things going on: Today I visited an organic farm, which was probably one of the most beautiful places I have ever been. I felt like I was either in Napa, CA or Tuscany. We drove an hour from our school and drove up into the mountains to this house and farm that was pretty secluded. This one man grows tons of fruits and vegetables and other herbs on this huge organic farm. It is so beautiful and so sustainable. He uses most of the food for his family, but is able to sell some of it as well. He was such a fascinating person. Just very in touch with God and the earth and a natural life. I appreciated his approach: he did not condemn traditional agricultural practices (even though he is against their environmental practices,) but humbly showed us the way that he has chosen to live his life on his farm. Afterwards we had fresh strawberry juice (one of the best things I have ever tasted...) coffee from his farm, homemade banana bread, papaya, and watermelon. So good.

In a little over a month I will leave San Jose and spend an entire month, BY MYSELF! on a farm somewhere in the country. I was really nervous about it, but today made me really excited. I have no idea what I will be doing, but I am excited to be outside everyday, working with a Costa Rican family on their farm.

Another story from my week: yesterday I woke up very sick. This has never really happened to me before, but when I opened my eyes the room was spinning. I was so dizzy and could barely get out of bed. I didn't know what was wrong with me, so I told my host parents that I didn't feel well and that I had nausea and dizziness and chills and all that. I threw up a few times, and my mom took me to the doctor. They ran a blood test and didn't find anything unusual. They did give me three kinds of medicines, including a 1 liter bottle of intense electrolytes. I drank the whole thing in one day. The more I think about it, I think I was soooo dehydrated. I walk about 6 miles everyday to class and back in the hot sun, and also have had some stomach problems that have caused me to lose a lot of liquids in the past week. So, needless to say, I am glad that I realized that before it got even worse!

Oh, but the one highlight from the whole visit to the doctor was the fact that I was able to explain in Spanish my problems to the doctor. Because my mom does not speak English, and the doctor said she did, but really only knew a few words like "pregnant" (no... no estoy embarazada (pregnant)) and "pain." So this was a real life situation where I was able to utilize my Spanish!

I am much better now. And yes. I will start drinking more water.

Hope you all are well! I have some other pictures and stories to post later this week!

Tuesday, February 2, 2010

Weekend in Limon






These are just some pictures from my wonderful weekend on the eastern coast of Costa Rica in Limon. I will post more later... And Brady lady, I took that picture with Wally for you. The guy in the picture with me is from Westmont College, and knows many of my friends from there from last semester. We instantly bonded over the 22 mutual friends we have from Westmont! That church was a beautiful Catholic church in the center of Limon- from the outside it is just this huge gray concrete block, but on the inside it is rather beautiful.